Bana brocade threatened by new trends

The image of Bana ethnic minority girls in traditional brocade outfits is fast disappearing in the southern province of Binh Dinh as the youth of today prefer modern western clothes to traditional ones.

According to Vo Chi Ha, an official of Hoai An district’s Culture, Information and Sport Centre, with the older generations going blind and dying off, if nothing is done, within the next ten years no one in Dak Mang and Bok Toi communes (which are renowned for brocade handicraft weaving) would know how to weave brocade.

Sixty-year-old Dinh Thi Son, one of the few ladies in Bok Toi commune who still wears traditional clothes daily, says the local handicraft has long been the pride of the Bana, especially in her youth.

Like many other girls in the commune, Son learned the way to weave brocade from the age of fifteen. Her days were spent picking drywood and harvesting maize, bamboo basket on her back; while her nights consisted of weaving brocade with her friends and family.

Dinh Thi Tap, an elder of Village T2, still remembers the golden time of local brocade weaving nearly 30 years ago when villagers used their handiwork to exchange goods with Bana people from other areas.

Brocade products of Dak Mang and Bok Toi communes were traded to Bana villages in Gia Lai, Kon Tum and Quang Ngai in barter for pigs, chicken and cotton; and outsiders from the lowlands traded gongs, jars, salt and thread for local brocade pieces.

In local festivals such as the buffalo slaughter ceremony, old ladies always appeared in traditional brocade clothes, young women wore skirts and the men sported loin-cloths, as they all danced to the music of gongs.

Women wore traditional clothes both in festivals and daily life to show their skill to others. Households with the most beautiful handiwork were respected and prospered. But that was 15 years ago.

According to Son, there was a time when every Bana girl knew how to weave brocade and “the girls, who made beautiful clothes would be courted by many and had no trouble finding a good husband. Therefore, local girls always competed with each others to weave the most beautiful brocade”.

Ten years ago, there were about 20 Bana households in the two communes weaving brocade. Today, only five are left with looms.

Son said business between the mountainous regions and the lowlands has become easier in recent years making young people no longer keen on the local handicraft as cheap ready made clothes are easily bought in local markets.

Meanwhile, the integration into the Kinh people’s lifestyle has caused the younger generations to shun traditional clothes.

“Today, young people only wear traditional clothes when they dance and perform at festivals,” said Son.

Son has two daughters but neither want to learn how to weave, “ At night, my daughters prefer watching television to learning weaving. When my generation dies, so will brocade weaving.”

Dinh Van Tuya, a teacher at Tran Quang Dieu Senior Secondary School , said he is ashamed at wearing a brocade before crowds. “I am a teacher, I can’t wear traditional clothes every day because it shows a lot of skin. Ready-made clothes are more convenient, especially when I teach children and ride a motorbike,” said Tuya.

22-year-old Dinh Thi Nhan is one of the only two young girls in Dak Mang and Bok Toi communes who know how to weave as she’s proud of this unique skill of her ethnic minority group. She was trained by her mother four years ago.

“I weave because I think it’s the best way for others to recognise us,” said Nhan.

Hoai An district’s Culture Information and Sport Centre has been organising biannual cultural festivals for ethnic minorities since 2004. One of the events is a brocade weaving competition and fashion show.

Ha said both the centre and the local women’s union actively encourage people to wear traditional clothes in festivals, Tet (Lunar New Year) and meetings. But they know this isn’t enough to save the Bana brocade.

“The district needs to study and set up an organisation to keep brocade weaving alive. Money is very important. Investment capital is needed for equipment, establishing brocade weaving groups and employing people,” said Ha._